Samina Khayal Baig

 


Samina Khayal Baig


Samina Khayal Baig was born on 19 September 1990 in Shimshal, a high valley village in the Hunza region of Gilgit-Baltistan in northern Pakistan. Shimshal sits at roughly 3,100 metres above sea level and is reached by a long, difficult road that was completed only in recent decades. The village is surrounded by glaciers and high peaks of the Karakoram. Life there has long depended on herding, farming, and moving across steep terrain, so children grow up knowing cold, altitude, and long walks. Baig’s parents, a farmer and a homemaker, sent their children to school. She has described an early attachment to the mountains around the village, where she helped with animals and firewood and played outdoors. Accounts of her childhood say she began climbing at a very young age, and that from about the age of fifteen she was trained more deliberately by her elder brother, Mirza Ali, who became her principal climbing partner and expedition leader.


Her first widely noted ascent came in 2010, when she climbed Chashkin Sar, a previously unclimbed peak above 6,000 metres near her home valley. Local people later renamed it Samina Peak. She made the climb in modest equipment, including shoes bought cheaply in a second-hand market, a detail she and her supporters have often cited as a measure of how little formal support she had at the start. In 2011 she reached the summit of another virgin peak that was named Koh-i-Brobar, or Mount Equality. An attempt on Spantik ended without a summit because of weather. By 2009 she was working as a professional climber and guide on routes in the Karakoram and Hindu Kush. Those early years established both her technical reputation and the public theme that has followed her career: a sister and brother from a remote valley treating high climbing as a shared project rather than a male preserve.


On 19 May 2013 Baig stood on the summit of Mount Everest, the highest mountain on Earth. She was twenty-two. She and Mirza Ali had climbed as part of a larger season on the mountain. Reports place her arrival near 7:40 in the morning. Mirza Ali is said to have stopped a short distance below the top so that she could complete the final stretch on her own. On the summit she met the Indian twin climbers Tashi and Nungshi Malik, and the three raised the flags of Pakistan and India together, an image that circulated as a small gesture of cross-border goodwill. Baig was the first Pakistani woman to reach the top of Everest and one of the youngest Muslim women to do so. The ascent made her a national figure almost overnight. Pakistan’s then prime minister, Nawaz Sharif, publicly recognised the climb and awarded her a cash prize. She has since said that the point of the expedition was not only the summit but the message that a girl from Shimshal could set the same kind of goal as anyone else.


Within about a year she and her brother completed the Seven Summits, the highest peak on each continent under the commonly used lists that include Carstensz Pyramid in Oceania as well as the continental high points. After Everest they climbed Aconcagua in Argentina, Vinson Massif in Antarctica, Kilimanjaro in Tanzania, Puncak Jaya (Carstensz Pyramid) in Indonesia, Denali in Alaska, and finally Mount Elbrus in Russia. They reached the top of Elbrus on 24 July 2014. Baig was twenty-three. The Alpine Club of Pakistan confirmed the sequence, and Mirza Ali described it as a record both of age and of speed for a Pakistani climber. She is widely credited as the first Pakistani, woman or man, to finish the Seven Summits, and as the first Muslim woman to do so. The pair are also often described as the first siblings to complete the circuit together. The list of peaks varies slightly in popular retellings—some accounts mention Mont Blanc when a different continental definition is used—but the 2014 completion on Elbrus is the date her team and Pakistani climbing bodies treat as the finish.


The years after the Seven Summits mixed public advocacy with further expeditions. In February 2018 the United Nations Development Programme named her Pakistan’s National Goodwill Ambassador. She has spoken at schools and public events about education, women’s mobility, and what she calls each person’s own mountains, meaning the private obstacles that do not appear on a map. Special Communications Organization, a telecom operator in Gilgit-Baltistan and Azad Kashmir, has used her as a brand ambassador. She has continued to work as a guide and expedition leader.


In July 2022, at the age of thirty-one, she summited K2, the world’s second-highest mountain and one of its most dangerous. K2 has a long record of fatal accidents relative to successful ascents. Baig became the first Pakistani woman to reach its summit. In 2023 she and Naila Kiani became the first Pakistani women to summit Nanga Parbat, the ninth-highest mountain in the world, long nicknamed the killer mountain because of its history of deadly storms and avalanches. Those two Karakoram and Himalayan climbs placed her among the small number of Pakistani women who have stood on multiple 8,000-metre peaks.


Her later projects have moved beyond summits toward the Explorer’s Grand Slam, which adds the North and South Poles to the Seven Summits. In December 2025 she skied to the last degree of the South Pole as part of an international expedition organised by Elite Exped, leaving Pakistan early in the month and finishing the ski journey around 14 December. She described the trip as the first such ski by a Pakistani and as one of the hardest things she had done. Namira Salim had earlier reached both poles by other means, so Baig’s claim was specific to the ski approach rather than to being the first Pakistani at the pole. She has said the South Pole leg continues the same line that began on Everest in 2013 and ran through the Seven Summits, K2, and Nanga Parbat.


Baig’s public story is unusually consistent. She returns again and again to Shimshal, to her brothers’ training, and to the idea that climbing is a practical argument for equal footing between women and men. The mountains renamed after her early ascents, the flags on Everest, the rapid Seven Summits circuit, and the later 8,000-metre climbs all sit inside that argument. She has not been free of the ordinary risks of the sport—weather has turned her back before, and K2 and Nanga Parbat remain statistically severe—but the record of completed objectives is clear. From a village at the end of a high road she became the first Pakistani woman on Everest, the first Pakistani on the Seven Summits, the first Pakistani woman on K2, and one of the first Pakistani women on Nanga Parbat, and she has kept adding remote objectives into her mid-thirties. That sequence, more than any single slogan, is the substance of her career.

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